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Repairing and sealing burned PCB

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I have a Super Reverb reissue that appears to be a victim of a previous repair. The R60, R61,
grids, the R62, R63 screens, and R70, R71 heater false center tap 100R resistors are all fried. I believe that high voltage arced on burned carbon that was left and not cleaned and sealed during the previous repair.

Once I remove all the burned material, what product do I need to seal this area to prevent further damage?
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Roland / Boss BR900-CD schematic or service notes please help

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I have a shot BR900-CD which does not power properl - hang on boot.
Second week and no go. Without a schematic my chances to fix it are
close to zero.

I do have schematics of other Roland digital recording studios, but they
are completly different.

Anyone please?

Fixing Roland BR900-CD digital studio recorder

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I am struggling to fix older piece of audio equipment BR900-CD. I have disassembled it to replace a pot, and after reassembly it wont boot. After powering on you can see LCD animation, some LED light up and fade slowly (like power went off), and everything hangs - nothing works. Also LCD backlight works no more.

I have compared voltages on some ribbon connectors and before when it was still working voltages were slightly higher than now. For example: 3.60 -> 3.12, 4.56 -> 4.21, 8.24 -> 7.88.

Original input is 9V DC. It is converted down the road by voltage regulators to 5V and 3.3V.

Any clues what can cause that voltage drop ? Is it rather cause or the effect ? How could I go about to troubleshoot it ?

Unfortunatelly schematic is impossible to find.

Atomic Amplifire 12 - Accidentally fed it 18V...

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Hi guys!

Might have chosen the wrong forum, sorry if that's the case.

So I accidentally fed my Atomic Amplifire 12 18V (wants 9V). The screen started flickering, went black and after about 3 seconds I realized my mistake and pulled the chord. Afterwards it had a slight "burnt electronics" smell and won't start. I've contacted the manufacturer about it, but since I live in Sweden, the shipping + repair cost won't be worth it. I just figured you might be able to help out with identifying some of the components, so I could try repairing it myself.

I've figured the components in the picture are:

FB1: Ferrite Bead (some kind of noise cancelling funktion) - But I can't find any specs on it.
BR1: A bridge transistor. I can't find an identical one though.
L1: An inductor. Can't find any specs.

Does anyone have any clue if one of the above are more prone to be the toasted component?

I'm thankfull for all the help I can get!

Korg M1 Service manual

tremolo "roaches"

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Hello,everyone,
I am currently working on a Randall commander II. The tremolo does not work due to a faulty "roach". As some of you know, and some may not, the "roach" is a four legged component that contains a light bulb, and a photo resistor. The bulb flashes per the tremolo settings, and the photo resistor controls the volume of the amp. So, to my question....I am having difficulty finding a replacement, and wondering if a Fender roach would work? For that matter, are these roaches all essentially the same for different amps? Wondering if I could make one, but would have to know the specs of the photo resistor and light bulb. Any thoughts on how to fix this amp? Any help would be appreciated..thanks.
John

Ampeg SVT 4Pro Repair

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Posting this for anyone who may be able to use my observations.

I had this Ampeg SVT4 Pro for repair that stumped me quite a bit. It had two separate issues that confused me.

1. There was some repetitive noise which sounded like something was "oscillating."
2. Both channels were distorting with no real level of volume. Sounded like as if there was not enough signal from the pre-amp!

We were able to rule out the pre-amp by using another power amp.

My friend who owns the amp had only one cab and troubleshooting was time consuming as it took a while to switch the cab between channels in between. It also threw us off since the noise signal was prominent on pin 14 of IC 101 which did not clear up after replacing same. Added to this, the scope died on us while being left powered on overnight. It is an old Tektronix which I am still trying to repair!

Back to basic troubleshooting using a DMM. With no power we checked all the transistors on that area of the schematic and found no difference between channels. Even though checking the FETs would not give any clear indication, just for the kicks we did and found that the display was all over the place with Q 101 as against Q 201 which was not so.

As checking/removing any component involved pulling out the whole power amp board with the heat sinks out of the chassis, we took the opportunity to check all the critical resistors/caps while it was out. We were thinking it has to be a common component as both channels were distorting which usually meant one of the common ICs or a common part in the power supply. But we were wrong! What we found was that R 126 and R 226 were both open and that explained why both channels were distorting!

Replaced Q 101 and the resistors 126/226. Also replaced R 119 and R 219 as they were all the same 47 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. I felt the original flameproof resistors were so tiny to be 1/2 watt though. On close observation they were very slightly discolored and was easy to not suspect unlike regular carbon film resistors.

It is a solid amp but very poor construction with regards to servicing.

QSC K12 self powered speaker shuts down at high levels

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I'm not very good with the newer Class D type amps. When I turn the input up to about half way on this self powered QSC K12 speaker it shuts down the audio but stays powered up. Turn the volume down for a few seconds and it starts to work again. I just thought I'd put it out there to see if anyone has had experience with this issue.

Can someone explain the phase inverter in the Traynor YBA-2 ?

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I recently fixed up a YBA-2 for myself and now trying to figure out the circuit, which is all very straight forward. But the phase inverter doesn't make sense to me... I've read that this amp is very similar to the Fender Harvard, but the PI isn't close...

The "top" stage looks like a straightforward amplification stage, but the "bottom" stage gets it's input from the node at R9,R10,R11.

On a sort of related note, when I got the amp - the person had the two preamp tubes switched. So a 12AX7 in that lone pre-amp section and the 12AU7 in the PI position.. strangely, reversing them yielded a sound that I didn't prefer. I checked it out on the scope and the cranked distorted signal looks far more interesting compared to the proper way (which essentially turns into asymmetrical square wave).



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Who sells 5mm (.196") steel polepieces?

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Hey guys, I know pretty much everyone builds pups with alnico pole pieces.. but I have a few old/cheap pickups that use a single ceramic magnet glued to some steel polepieces and I'd like to make something similar.

I suppose I'd be looking for low-carbon iron.. maybe something called "soft iron" (1008 Steel) or even 1018 Carbon Steel.

I know humbuckers have polepieces that aren't magnetic.. what are those made of? Maybe somewhere sells those in different lengths/diameters?

Galien Krueger Fusion 550 schematic diagram or service manual wanted

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Hello all you GK users.

I have a GK Fusion 550 that has a small problem. When I switch it on it pops like a rifle. All controls are at zero and the mute button is engaged and the same pop occurs.

Has anyone had a similar problem and found a fix or is there a schematic diagram or service manaual available for this great amplifier.

Gallien Krueger Fusion 550 pops like a rifle when switched on

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Hi there. My Gallien Krueger Fusion 550 pops like a rifle when switched on even with all the controls set to zero and the mute button engaged.

Any thoughts on fixing the fault or a copy of the schematic diagram or service manual out there?

Need Help dialing in my amp

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What are some of the tweaks or things I should check to dial in a 5e5a build? I want to make the low end tight and punchy and just overall more responsive?

Fender Hotrod Deluxe 2017

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Hi,

I've received the amp in the title with complaints of volume dropping in and out when played loud. Light tapping on the chassis started producing some weird howling noise, so I figured I'd replace power tubes, bias and go from there.

Set it around 50mA per schematic and started gradually increasing volume. At one point the tubes flashed blue really hard and the amp reverted back to humming.

Before I go about checking all the usual stuff I'm wondering about this blue flash, as I'm thinking it would be indicative of a problem.

Thanks all.

https://www.thetubestore.com/lib/the...-Schematic.pdf

Edit: I'll add that humming is not affected by any of the controls.

Hartke 3500 MOSFET white noise preamp issue

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Hi all, first post on this forum. I've been doing a lot of searching for this problem I'm having and I've come across a post or two that were rather close but not quite exactly the same. I'm trying to repair my bass players Hartke 3500 mosfet amp. I'm by no means an expert at this (more of a beginner trying to cross into intermediate territory), and I'll do my best to describe the issue in as much detail as possible.

So this amp was being used by my bass player as well as the best player in another band. My friend went to use it one day and discovered that the other guy had the master volume cranked waaaay up, and the speaker cabinet was plugged into one of the effects slots (I assume the send) instead of the speaker out. So when my friend went to hook it up correctly, he longer was getting any signal and instead was just getting a loud white noise-like, WOOOOSH sound. I told him I'd take a look at it, and I'm at the point where I've pretty much narrowed it down to it being a problem at the preamp. First off, the master volume control is able to control the white noise level. Second, I input a signal generator with a 1 kHZ sinewave into the passive and active input slots and they are coming through the speaker loudly, but with the white noise sound also coming through louder and when I adjust the preamp tube and solid state knobs, they do adjust the volume of the signal generator. Also I read that you can determine whether it's a preamp problem by inputting the signal at the effects send input. I tried that with the bass guitar, and I am able to get a signal through there. It's weak, but it's there and it's louder than through the preamp. Things I've done so far: Replaced resistor R130 because it looked burnt, no change. Replaced the single tube, no change. Tested the 5 output transistors out of circuit, they checked out good. And that's about it so far. So at this point I'm thinking it's most likely in the preamp, but where should I start? Could it maybe be a bad op-amp? Filter capacitor? If anyone has any idea on which direction I should go at this point, it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Positive voltage on grid of self-biased triode at idle

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We're having an odd problem with V2 in a couple of recent builds. After a few minutes, a small positive voltage (~.5 - .8vDC) gradually builds up on the grid, which of course causes the stage to be biased very hot and incapable of passing an undistorted signal. The plate voltage is normally ~175v but gets dragged down to 140 or so at idle. Grounding the grid with a jumper brings things (at idle) back to normal. There is about 240k DCR from grid to ground (by inspection, and verified with a meter). Replaced the tube, measured all the neighborhood resistors, everything is within spec. Resistance between pin 1 and 2 measures 'open circuit.' Turning both input volumes to zero has little to no effect.

I'm out of ideas - any suggestions?

Schematic similar to this (but no cathode bypass cap): https://hiwatt.org/Schematics/DR_Pre4Input_v2.pdf

First Time Biasing my Original '68 Fender Deluxe Reverb

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I'm learning (from Rob Robinette's excellent site) to bias one of my older amps and just need to bounce this off of someone more experienced to reinforce what I did. I'm using JJ 6V6's, measured V7 plate@420vdc, V8 plate@419vdc. B+@ 425.5vdc a difference of 5.5 & 6.5, respectively. I measured the plate to OT center tap resistance, V7@230.8ohms & V8@226.3ohms. Calculating the V7current, 5.5v/230.8=.0238a or 23.8ma, V8current, 6.5v/226.3=.0287a or 28.7ma

If my calcs are correct, are these idle currents too hot? too cold? Just right?

I noticed that when I raised or lowered the bias pot, both the plate and the OT voltages increased or lowered concurrently. How then does the bias get adjusted?

Weird OT issue ?

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Hello,
I just noticed using one Hammond OT and trying to apply some nfb. Keeping common secondary lead to whatever ground point or keeping isolate didn't do any diference. I checked DC continuity in isolation condition and shows secondaries are isolated from ground, the output jack's are suspended from chassis, even the iron is physical dc isolate from its support. I injected 9db feedback in my amp and from an accident I disconnected the common ground lead from the ground. I didn't noticed any diference . I repeated more carefully, swapping signal from 100 to 10000 hz, no diferences,the feedback loop is pretty stable with, or without common lead grounded, it looks like OT was grounded by default, despite the fact it is completely isolated. In fact it not exist a physical nfb return.Now I wonder if my transformer could be as well AC coupled with my steel chassis to not see any diference in terms of grounding. It is normal , please? Thanks

Nasty Sounding Tech 21 Trademark 60

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Tech 21 Trademark 60

It came to me with a melted power transformer, and the LM3876 power amp detached from its heatsink.

Replaced transformer with something about the right size and reattached power amp.

It sounds like a fuzzbox on both channels.

Tried an external speaker. Same.

It has a good +/- 30V on the power amp. and good +/-15V on the op amps.

Tried an external pre-amp into the FX return. Still sounds same.

Tried replacing LM 3876. No change.

Any thoughts?

Guyatone GA1010 Preamp out question

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Hello dear forum members,

I've been an avid reader of this forum for several years.
Now I'd like to ask for your advice:

I literally pulled an old amp from the 60s, a Guyatone GA1010, out of the trash and found that it still worked pretty well. Anyway, I'm just about to overhaul it completely and have already exchanged the capacitors.
The built-in tremolo, however, seems to be just a wet signal. I'd like to modify the amp so that I can install a second preamp channel and mix it with the "original" channel so I can mix in the tremolo's signal. But maybe I'd simply put a blend pot for the tremolo into the board (this would probably be the better solution).

Here's my question:
I've no schematics for the amp and I've no idea how to figure out where the preamp output is.
Can someone help me find out? I can send photos of the board. Maybe someone got the schematics?


I'm very grateful for any help (even if my project seems a bit silly)!

Btw., the amp was not complete, when I found it. Only the bare chassis with the electronic components. I'd never modify a complete amp, even if it's a cheap one like this. I'll build a nice cab for it.

Best wishes from Bavaria

Michael
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